As dusk falls over Pálpite, a small town bordering Cuba’s expansive Zapata Swamp, the usual quiet is broken—not by the red land crabs that once drew hundreds of thousands of tourists annually to this premier eco-tourism site, but by local residents emerging from their homes to catch a fleeting cell phone signal when the electricity briefly returns. This scene reflects the harsh reality faced by many under a US energy blockade that has left large parts of the island without reliable power.
Manuela Arencibia Báez, who owns a rental property near the beachfront area of Playa Larga—just two miles away and the region’s leading overnight destination—expresses her frustration over the situation. She has had to cancel countless reservations, including those from tourists already in Cuba who struggle to find taxis with enough fuel for the two-hour journey from Havana. Official statistics confirm a 56% drop in international tourist arrivals in February compared to the previous year. Both hotels in Playa Larga remain closed, and most tourist sites have ceased operations.
Cuba’s longstanding challenges with shortages, exacerbated by a state-controlled economy and a decades-old US trade embargo, have worsened dramatically. Residents and tourism workers in the Zapata area describe the current crisis as more severe than the hardships experienced during the COVID-19 pandemic. Power outages now last up to 22 hours daily, leaving only brief windows for residents to contact family in Miami or Havana and to prepare meals before perishables spoil. Water scarcity is widespread, and medical services—already limited in remote areas—have become nearly inaccessible due to the lack of electricity and communication.
Fuel shortages have severely impacted independent travelers who once frequented the region in rental cars. The US fuel blockade coincided with Cuba’s peak tourism season, virtually guaranteeing a disastrous year for an industry that still contributes up to 10% of the country’s foreign currency earnings in 2024. Many hotels and services from Havana to popular beach destinations such as Varadero, Cayo Santa María, and Cayo Coco have shut down as airlines reduce flights due to fuel constraints.
Fidel Silvestre Fuentes, a 67-year-old rental home owner who traditionally hosts birdwatchers eager to see the bee hummingbird—the world’s smallest bird—notes that his accommodations are now empty. The Zapata Swamp region, much of which lies within a protected national park, boasts more private rentals than even Cuba’s top beach destination, Varadero. Yet, it now resembles a ghost town. The region’s only access road is riddled with potholes, and the coastal stretch between Playa Larga and Playa Girón is largely deserted, inhabited mainly by stray crabs, residents on horseback, and cyclists.
Even major attractions like the Cueva de los Peces, a crystal-clear cave teeming with tropical fish, have been closed for two months. The economic impact is especially severe in Zapata, where tourism is one of the few employment options. Jorge Alberto Brito, a local hat and souvenir vendor, says many residents survive on just a few pesos daily, emphasizing that the community has hit rock bottom.
Among the few better-off is Fidel Fuentes Rayó, who has invested in solar panels and a lithium battery to power his rental home. However, he acknowledges that such comforts do not attract tourists, who primarily come for activities like birdwatching, diving, boat rides, and fly fishing—experiences currently unavailable due to fuel shortages and transportation difficulties.
Despite these challenges, a handful of tourists continue to visit. American Blair Andrews, a frequent visitor familiar with local guides at a Bay of Pigs scuba diving operation, remains undeterred by the power and communication issues. She returns because of the warmth of the Cuban people and their rich culture, expressing sadness over the hardships they now face as she prepares to dive into the clear waters of the Bay of Pigs.
